How Do I Measure for a Replacement Door?

Marion Pulse on May 14, 2026

How you measure for a replacement door depends on whether it is interior or exterior. For interior doors, measure the slab itself (width, height, thickness) and note the casing type. Standard sizes cover most situations. For exterior doors, pull the interior trim back and measure outside of frame to outside of frame for width, top of jamb to bottom of sill for height, and full wall thickness for jamb depth. Also note the swing direction. Interior measurements are simple. Exterior measurements need to be exact.

Why Does Measuring for a Replacement Door Matter So Much?

A door that does not fit is one of the most expensive mistakes in any project. Custom doors are not returnable. Stock doors get sent back at your cost. Either way, you lose time, money, and your install date.

Most measuring problems come from the same place. People assume the opening is square. They take one measurement instead of several. They forget to check the jamb depth. They mix up interior and exterior measuring methods.

When you measure for a replacement door the right way, you avoid all of that. You get the correct size the first time. The install goes faster. The door seals better. And you do not have to call your supplier in a panic the day before install.

What Do You Need Before You Start?

You only need a few simple tools.

  • A tape measure, at least 25 feet
  • A level
  • A pencil
  • A notebook or your phone for writing numbers down

That is it. Do not eyeball anything. Write every number down as you take it.

You also need to know what kind of door you are ordering.

  • A slab door is just the door itself. No frame.
  • A prehung door comes with the frame, jamb, and hinges already attached.

The measurements are different for each, and they are different for interior versus exterior doors. Most interior replacements are straightforward slab measurements. Most exterior replacements are prehung units that require frame measurements with the trim pulled back.

How Do You Measure for a Replacement Interior Door?

Interior replacement doors are simpler than most people expect. There is far less variance on interior openings than on exterior ones, and standard sizes cover almost everything.

The easiest path is to measure the slab itself.

  • Width: Measure across the existing slab at the top, middle, and bottom. Use the largest number.
  • Height: Measure from top to bottom on both sides. Use the largest number.
  • Thickness: Most interior doors are 1 3/8 inches thick. Measure to confirm.

If your slab measures close to a standard size, like 24, 28, 30, 32, or 36 inches wide and 80 inches tall, you can usually order a stock prehung unit in that size. A 24-inch slab maps to a 2/0 x 6/8 door. A 32-inch slab maps to a 2/8 x 6/8. Your supplier can confirm.

Also note the casing type. The casing is the trim that wraps around the door frame. If you are replacing the whole prehung unit, your supplier needs to know what casing style you want so the new door blends with the rest of the room.

You should not need to pull trim off interior walls to measure for a replacement. Slab size and casing notes are usually enough. Most replacement interior doors come as prehung units with matching casing options.

 How Do You Measure for a Replacement Exterior Door?

Exterior doors take more care. The opening matters more, the seal matters more, and the cost of a wrong door is higher.

For an exterior replacement, you want outside of the frame measurement, sometimes called outside of jamb. This is much more accurate than measuring the trim, because trim can be installed slightly off and throw your numbers off, too.

To get to the frame, you will need to pull the interior trim back from around the door. Once the trim is off, you can measure the actual frame.

Take these measurements.

  • Width: Measure from the outside of one jamb to the outside of the other jamb. Take this measurement at the top, middle, and bottom.
  • Height: Measure from the top of the top jamb down to the bottom of the sill. Measure on both sides.
  • Jamb depth: Measure the wall thickness from the back of the interior wall to the back of the exterior wall. Include drywall, sheathing, and siding.

Standard jamb depths are 4 9/16 inches for 2×4 walls and 6 9/16 inches for 2×6 walls. Older homes often fall between sizes. Measure. Do not guess.

For exterior doors, also note the swing direction. Stand outside facing the door. If the hinges are on the right, it is a right-hand door. If they are on the left, it is a left-hand door. Get this wrong, and the door will not work for your space.

What Are the Most Common Measuring Mistakes?

These are the mistakes we see most often when people order replacement doors.

  • Measuring only once. Openings are rarely square. Always measure width and height in multiple places.
  • Measuring to the outside of the trim on exterior doors. Trim can be installed slightly off, which throws the numbers off. Always pull the trim back and measure outside of frame to outside of frame for the most accurate size.
  • Forgetting jamb depth. A door with the wrong jamb depth will not seat against the wall. The trim will not fit right.
  • Handing the door from the wrong side. Swing direction is determined from outside the home looking in for exterior doors, and from the room you are entering for interior doors. Get this backwards and the door swings into the wrong space.
  • Skipping the casing note on interior replacements. If you are ordering a new prehung interior door, your supplier needs to know what casing style to match.

If any of your numbers feel off, measure again. Five extra minutes beats a wrong door.

What Should Atlanta Homeowners Know About Older Houses?

Homes in neighborhoods like Sandy Springs and Brookhaven often have door openings that are not standard sizes. Houses settle. Frames shift. Older homes built before standard door sizing can have openings that are off by a half inch or more, especially on exterior doors.

Georgia humidity also matters. Wood swells in summer and shrinks in winter. A door that fits fine in February may stick in July. When you measure for a replacement door in the warmer months, leave a little room for movement, especially with wood doors.

If your exterior opening sits between standard sizes, talk with your supplier before ordering. A custom size may take longer to arrive, but it will fit correctly. A door cut down to fit on site rarely seals as well.

For interior doors, this is much less of an issue. Stock sizes cover most situations.

How Cofer Brothers Can Help

We carry a full range of interior and exterior doors. Our team can walk you through the measurements before you order so you get the right size the first time.

Bring your numbers in or send them over. We will check them against the door you want and flag anything that looks off. If the opening is non-standard, we can quote a custom size.

We also assemble doors in our on-site door shop here inTucker. That means faster turnaround and tighter quality control than doors shipped pre-assembled from somewhere else.

If you are not sure how to measure or what kind of door you need, we are happy to talk it through.

What Should You Do Next?

Pull out a tape measure and write down your numbers. For interior doors, that means slab width, height, thickness, and casing type. For exterior doors, that means outside of frame measurements, jamb depth, and swing direction.

Then bring those numbers to a supplier who knows doors. We can help you confirm the size, pick the right material, and get the door ordered without a costly mistake.

Stop by or give us a call when you are ready. We will help you figure out the best path forward.

Contact Us

Related Articles

FAQs

What measurements do I need to measure for a replacement door?

It depends on whether the door is interior or exterior. For an interior replacement door, measure the slab width, height, and thickness, and note the casing style. Standard sizes cover most interiors. For an exterior replacement door, pull the interior trim back and measure outside of jamb to outside of jamb for width, top of the top jamb to the bottom of the sill for height, and the full wall thickness for jamb depth.

Do I need to pull the trim off to measure an interior door?

No. For interior replacement doors, you can usually measure the existing slab and order a standard size. There is far less variance on interior openings than on exterior ones, and standard sizes like 24, 28, 30, 32, and 36 inches wide cover most situations. Just measure the slab and note the casing type so the new door matches the rest of the room.

What is the most accurate way to measure an exterior door opening?

The most accurate way is to pull the interior trim back and measure the outside of the jamb directly, sometimes called the outside of frame measurement. Measuring to the outside of the trim is less reliable because trim can be installed slightly off, which throws the numbers off. Always measure jamb to jamb for width and from the top of the top jamb to the bottom of the sill for height.

What Causes Doors to Stick and How Do I Fix It?

Marion Pulse on March 27, 2026

A sticking door can be because of humidity, house settling, worn hinges, paint buildup, or rot. Some fixes take ten minutes. Others mean it is time for a new door. Start by finding the cause. Tighten hinges, sand down paint buildup, or adjust the strike plate for quick fixes. If the door is warped, rotting, or the frame is out of square, replacement often makes more sense.

A sticking door is one of those problems that starts small and gets worse. At first, it is just annoying. Then it becomes a daily frustration. Eventually, you are putting your shoulder into it every time.

The good news is that most sticking doors have a simple cause. And many can be fixed without replacing anything.

The key is figuring out why the door is sticking. Once you know the cause, you can decide whether a quick fix will solve it or whether something bigger is going on.

For homeowners in Brookhaven, Norcross, and across Metro Atlanta, here is what to look for and what to do about it.

What Causes Doors to Stick?

A sticking door usually comes down to one of a few common causes. Finding the right one saves time and money.

Humidity and Moisture

Wood absorbs moisture from the air. When humidity rises, wood swells. When it drops, wood shrinks. This is normal, but it causes problems.

In Georgia, humidity swings are significant. Summer humidity can push doors tight in their frames. Winter dryness can leave gaps. A door that sticks in July might swing freely in January.

Interior doors in older homes are often solid wood. They react more to humidity than modern composite doors. Exterior doors face even more moisture exposure from rain and temperature swings.

If your door sticks mostly in humid months, moisture is likely the cause.

House Settling

Houses move over time. Foundations settle. Frames shift. What was square when the house was built may not be square now.

When a frame shifts, the door no longer fits the opening correctly. It may drag at the top, bottom, or along one side. You might notice the gap around the door is uneven, wider on one side than the other.

Settling is common in older homes. Many homes in Brookhaven and Norcross have been through decades of ground shifting with the seasons.

Worn or Loose Hinges

Hinges wear out over time. Screws loosen. The hinge wears down, and the door begins to sag.

A sagging door drags on the floor or rubs against the frame near the latch. You might notice the door has dropped slightly, leaving a wider gap at the top than at the bottom.

This is one of the easiest problems to spot and often the easiest to fix.

Paint Buildup

Every coat of paint adds thickness. After several paint jobs over the years, that buildup can make a door too tight in its frame.

Paint buildup usually shows up along the latch edge or the top of the door. If the door was repainted recently and started sticking afterward, the paint is probably the cause.

Rot

Rot causes wood to soften, swell, and lose its shape. A rotting door may stick because the damaged area has expanded or warped.

Rot usually starts at the bottom of the door where moisture collects. It can also develop around glass inserts or anywhere the finish has failed, and water gets in.

If the door feels soft when you press on it, or if you see discoloration and sponginess, rot is likely the problem. Unlike other causes, rot does not get better. It only spreads.

A rotting door cannot be fixed with adjustments. It needs to be replaced.

Warped Door

Doors can warp over time, especially wood doors exposed to moisture or heat on one side. A warped door does not sit flat in the frame. It may stick at one corner while gapping at another.

Warping is harder to fix than other causes. Minor warping can sometimes be corrected. Severe warping usually means replacement.

Quick Reference: Causes and Fixes

CauseDIY Fix?What to Do
Loose hingesYesTighten screws
Paint buildupYesSand edges
Strike plate misalignedYesAdjust plate
Humidity swellingMaybeWait for season change, minor sanding
House settlingNoMay need replacement
RotNoReplace door
WarpingNoReplace door

How Do I Fix a Sticking Door?

Not every cause has a DIY fix. Rot, warping, and major settling usually mean replacement. But for hinges, paint buildup, and strike plate issues, here is what to try.

Tighten the Hinges

This is the first thing to try. Use a screwdriver to tighten all the hinge screws on both the door and the frame.

If the screws spin without tightening, the holes are stripped. You can fix this by removing the screw, inserting a wooden toothpick or matchstick with wood glue, letting it dry, and reinstalling the screw. For a stronger fix, use longer screws that reach into the framing behind the jamb.

Sand Paint Buildup

If paint buildup is the problem, sanding down the edges can restore clearance. Focus on the areas where the door contacts the frame. A sanding block or palm sander works well for this.

In severe cases, stripping the paint entirely and starting fresh may be necessary. Be careful not to remove too much material.

Adjust the Strike Plate

Sometimes the door closes fine, but the latch does not line up with the strike plate. This makes the door feel stuck even though it is not rubbing.

You can adjust the strike plate by enlarging the hole slightly with a file or chisel, or by moving the plate up or down. Some strike plates have adjustable tabs that can be bent to align with the latch.

Should You Fix or Replace?

Some sticking doors are worth fixing. Others are not. Here is how to decide.

Consider Fixing If:

  • The door is in good shape overall
  • The problem just started or is seasonal
  • Hinges are loose, but the door is not damaged
  • Paint buildup is the clear cause
  • The frame is still square and solid

Consider Replacing If:

  • The door is rotting, soft, or spongy in spots
  • The door is visibly warped and does not sit flat in the frame
  • The frame itself is rotted, damaged, or badly out of square
  • The door has stuck repeatedly after previous fixes
  • The door is old and showing other signs of wear, like cracks or a failed finish
  • You are already planning other updates to the room or entry

Exterior doors that stick and also show rot, warping, or seal failure are usually past fixing. A new prehung unit gives you a fresh door, frame, and weatherseal all at once.

For interior doors, replacement is often simpler than fighting an old door that will not cooperate.

What About Seasonal Sticking?

Some doors stick only during certain times of the year. They swell in humid summer months and shrink back in dry winter months.

If your door sticks seasonally but works fine the rest of the year, aggressive fixes may backfire. Sanding too much in July could leave gaps in January.

For seasonal sticking, minor adjustments work best. You can also reduce indoor humidity swings with climate control, which helps stabilize wood doors throughout the year.

How Can Cofer Brothers Help?

If your door needs replacing, we carry interior and exterior doors in a wide range of styles and sizes. We also stock hinges, strike plates, and other hardware for repairs.

For interior doors, our door shop builds prehung units to your specifications. You get the right size, jamb depth, and handing without the wait for special orders.

If you are not sure whether to repair or replace, we are happy to talk through your situation. Sometimes a $10 fix solves the problem. Other times, a new door is the smarter move.

Stop by our Tucker location or give us a call.

What Should You Do Next?

Start by looking at the door closely. Check where it is rubbing. Look at the gap around the frame. Tighten the hinges and see if that helps.

If simple fixes do not work, or if the door is showing other signs of wear, it may be time to replace. Measure the opening and think about what you want in a new door.

When you are ready, we can help you find the right fit.

Contact Us

FAQ

Why is my door sticking?

Doors stick for several reasons. Humidity causes wood to swell. House settling shifts frames out of square. Hinges wear out and sag over time. Paint buildup on edges creates friction. Rot can also cause sticking as the wood softens and swells. Finding the cause helps you decide whether a quick fix will work or if replacement makes more sense.

Can I fix a sticking door myself?

Many sticking doors can be fixed with simple adjustments. Tightening hinge screws, sanding paint buildup, or adjusting the strike plate are common DIY fixes. If the frame is out of square, the door is warped, or rot has set in, replacement is usually the better option.

When should I replace a sticking door instead of fixing it?

Replace instead of repair if the door is rotting, visibly warped, or the frame is badly out of square. Also consider replacement if the door has stuck repeatedly after previous fixes or is showing other signs of wear. Repeated fixes usually mean the underlying problem is bigger than the issue itself.

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How Much Does It Cost to Replace a Front Door?

Marion Pulse on March 13, 2026

The cost to replace a front door can vary by material. Fiberglass prehung units typically run $800 to $3,000 or more. Aluminum-clad doors range from $2,500 to $5,000 or more. Wood doors range from $2,000 to $6,000 or more. Glass options, grilles, prefinish, installation, and hardware all add to the total. Get quotes that break out door, hardware, and labor separately so you can compare accurately.

Replacing your front door is one of the most visible upgrades you can make. It affects curb appeal, security, and energy efficiency. But figuring out what it should cost can be confusing.

Most front door replacements involve a full prehung unit. That means a new door, frame, and trim altogether. Replacing the full unit is standard because it ensures a proper fit, better weathersealing, and a clean finished look. The prices in this guide reflect prehung units, not slab-only doors.

The cost to replace a front door varies widely depending on material, size, and features. Understanding what drives the cost helps you budget realistically and compare quotes fairly.

For homeowners in Kirkwood, East Lake, and across Metro Atlanta, this guide breaks down typical price ranges and what affects the final number.

Quick Reference: Door Costs by Material

MaterialPrehung Unit (Typical Range)Best For
Fiberglass$800 – $3,000+Most front doors, best value
Aluminum-Clad$2,500 – $5,000+Premium look, lower maintenance than wood
Wood$2,000 – $6,000+High-end homes, covered entries

Prices reflect prehung units (door, frame, and trim). Costs vary based on brand, style, glass options, grilles, and prefinish. Hardware and installation are usually additional.

What Do Fiberglass Doors Cost?

Fiberglass doors are the most popular choice for front door replacement. They offer good performance, durability, and curb appeal at a reasonable price.

Entry-level fiberglass prehung units start around $800 to $1,200. Mid-range fiberglass doors with better glass options and finishes run $1,200 to $2,000. Premium fiberglass doors from brands like Therma-Tru can reach $2,500 to $3,000 or more.

Fiberglass does not rot, warp, or rust. It handles Georgia heat and humidity well. Many fiberglass doors have a wood-grain texture that looks like real wood from a distance.

For most homeowners, mid-range fiberglass offers the best balance of appearance, durability, and value.

Best for: Most front doors. Good curb appeal with low maintenance.

What Do Aluminum-Clad Doors Cost?

Aluminum-clad doors are a premium option. They combine a wood interior with a protective aluminum exterior. You get the warm look of wood inside your home and weather resistance outside.

Aluminum-clad prehung units typically start around $2,500 and can reach $5,000 or more depending on size, style, and brand. Pella, Ply Gem, and Western Window Systems are common brands in this category.

The aluminum cladding protects against moisture, UV damage, and temperature swings. It does not need painting and resists fading. The wood interior can be stained or finished to match your home.

Aluminum-clad costs more upfront than fiberglass. But for homeowners who want the look of wood without constant maintenance, it often makes sense.

Best for: Homeowners who want real wood inside with less exterior upkeep.

What Do Wood Doors Cost?

Wood doors offer beauty that other materials cannot match. Nothing compares to the depth and character of real wood.

Wood prehung units typically start around $2,000 to $2,500. Mid-range wood doors run $3,000 to $4,000. High-end custom wood doors can exceed $6,000.

But wood requires serious maintenance. In Georgia’s humidity, wood doors need refinishing every one to two years to prevent warping, cracking, and rot. Most wood door warranties are short, often just one year.

Wood works best on covered entries with minimal exposure to sun and rain. If you choose wood, plan for the ongoing upkeep.

Best for: High-end homes, covered entries with minimal exposure, homeowners committed to regular maintenance.

What Else Affects the Price?

The door itself is only part of the cost. Several other factors add up.

Size and Configuration

Standard single doors cost less than oversized doors. If your opening is wider or taller than standard, expect to pay more. Double doors cost roughly twice as much as single doors, sometimes more.

Sidelites add cost. A door with one sidelite costs more than a door alone. A door with two sidelites costs more still. Transoms above the door add even more.

Glass Options

Plain doors without glass cost less. Doors with glass inserts cost more. Privacy glass, decorative glass, and textured glass all add to the price. The more elaborate the glass design, the higher the cost.

Grilles add another layer. SDL (simulated divided lites) gives your door the look of traditional divided glass panels. The more lites, the higher the price. Different grille patterns and profiles also affect cost.

Glass also affects energy efficiency. Low-E glass and insulated glass panels cost more but reduce heat transfer.

Prefinish Options

Many doors come primed and ready to paint. But prefinished doors arrive with the final color already applied.

Prefinishing costs more upfront. But it saves time on site and often lasts longer than field-applied paint. For fiberglass doors with a wood-grain texture, factory stain finishes can look remarkably close to real wood.

If you want a specific color or stain without doing the work yourself, ask about prefinish options.

Hardware

Most door prices do not include hardware. Handles, locks, deadbolts, and hinges are usually quoted separately.

Basic hardware sets start around $50 to $100. Mid-range hardware runs $100 to $250. High-end hardware with smart locks or premium finishes can exceed $300.

When comparing quotes, check whether hardware is included or extra.

Installation

Installation costs vary based on complexity. A straightforward swap where the new door fits the existing opening costs less. If the opening needs to be resized, the frame needs repair, or trim work is involved, labor costs increase.

Some quotes include installation. Others list it separately. Make sure you understand what you are comparing.

How Do I Compare Door Quotes?

Door quotes can be confusing because different suppliers include different things.

When comparing, ask:

  • Does this include the prehung unit or just the slab?
  • Is hardware included?
  • Is installation included?
  • What brand and model is quoted?
  • What glass, grille, and finish options are included?
  • What warranty comes with the door?

A lower quote might not include hardware or installation. A higher quote might include everything. Compare the total cost, not just the door price.

What About Older Homes?

Many homes in Kirkwood and East Lake have non-standard door openings. Older homes were often built before sizing became standardized.

If your opening does not match standard dimensions, you may need a custom-sized door. Custom doors cost more and take longer to arrive. Measure carefully before assuming a stock door will fit.

Older frames may also need repair or replacement. Rot, settling, and wear can affect the frame even if the door itself is the main problem. Factor this into your budget.

How Can Cofer Brothers Help?

We offer fiberglass, aluminum-clad, and wood exterior doors from trusted brands including Therma-Tru, Plastpro, Masonite, JELD-WEN, Pella, Ply Gem, and Western Window Systems.

Our team can help you compare options and understand what affects the price. We give you a clear quote that shows what is included.

Our door shop in Tucker builds prehung units to your specifications. You tell us the size, jamb depth, and handing. We assemble it within a few days. This speeds up delivery and improves quality compared to doors shipped pre-assembled.

If you are not sure what you need, we are happy to talk through your options.

What Should You Do Next?

Start by measuring your current door and opening. Note the width, height, and whether you have sidelites or a transom.

Decide what material makes sense for your home and budget. Fiberglass works well for most front doors in our climate. Aluminum-clad gives you wood on the inside with less upkeep. Wood makes sense if you want the look and are willing to maintain it.

Then get a few quotes. Ask what is included. Compare the totals, not just the door prices.

When you are ready, give us a call or stop by. We will help you find a door that fits your home, your style, and your budget.

Contact Us

How much does it cost to replace a front door?

Front door replacement costs vary by material. Fiberglass prehung units typically run $800 to $3,000 or more. Aluminum-clad doors range from $2,500 to $5,000 or more. Wood doors range from $2,000 to $6,000 or more. Installation, hardware, and extras add to the total.

What affects the cost of a new front door?

Door material is the biggest factor. Size matters too, especially for non-standard openings. Privacy glass, decorative glass, and grilles like SDL (simulated divided lites) add cost. Prefinish options also increase the price. Hardware is usually separate. Installation complexity affects labor costs, especially if the frame needs work.

Is fiberglass or wood better for a front door?

Fiberglass offers better durability and lower maintenance. It handles Georgia heat and humidity well. Wood offers unmatched beauty but requires regular refinishing. Aluminum-clad gives you a wood interior with a protected exterior for less upkeep than solid wood.

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